Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
